This switch is activated by a cable that goes behind the dash that extends when the gear selector is shifted into Park. The basic purpose of this mechanism is to keep the key from starting or turning off the car when not in Park.
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Don't be tempted to swap the entire instrument cluster, as I was. I kept forgetting that the odometer goes along with the cluster, so I would suspect that swapping would be considered odometer tampering. Speaking of the service manual, this would also be a good book to have handy.
The history file is massive, the size of a telephone directory, and includes the original BL Passport to Service book supplied convert miata from auto to manual new.
It flew through the MOT with no advisory comments, just praise from the tester who served his apprenticeship with Standard-Triumph when this car was built.
In addition, there are a couple of websites that can aid in the process: Miata Wiring Diagrams If you are subscribed to the Miata mailing list, the other list members can prove to be invaluable in times of need. However, if you can change a clutch, you can do this swap. I was able to simply lift the manual transmission into place when reinstalling, but I required help when fitting the automatic.
Besides the transmissions themselves, the most difficult part of this project is swapping the wiring. In addition, there are some unique connections travelling to the ECU. Other than that, everything else is pretty easy.
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You need the car at least high enough to be able to slide the transmission out towards the rear of the car, about 2 feet; - The four 14mm nuts holding the drive plate to the torque converter in an automatic Miata were extremely difficult for me to remove.
I ended up using a box wrench and fitting it over the nut, I got out from under the car and used my feet to break the initial grip.
It's very easy to forget to remove this bracket when you have the automatic car up on the stands. From under the car, the bolt is blocked by the ATF cooling lines and wiring. From the top, you have very little clearance. I worked with the limited clearance from the top, but you may find other options; - If you are pulling the wiring, working inside the car is much easier with the seats removed.
In my case, the cat bolts were frozen solid, where the downpipe bolts broke loose relatively easily.
Reinstalling the entire exhaust was not so difficult - simply hang the rear first, then you can manipulate the downpipe into position; - Related to the wiring - the hood release pull does NOT separate from the hood release cable. The hood release cable DOES separate from the hood latch itself.
Hey guys I recently bought a Tacoma double cab auto. I have always owned manula trucks and I am a little scared about owning this auto! lol I hunt really hard to where i push snow with the head lights on my out yota pickup A lot of people who own these trucks down here say that the tranny heats up quick? what have you guys experinced with this? Im also wondering if any of you have converted auto to standard on the '01 tacomas??? houndsmen, Sep 10, #1.
The hood release pull and cable will be pulled with the wiring; - Additionally, when gaining access to the internal wiring be careful when removing the dash.
There are three cables related to the HVAC system that control heat and vents.
Figure 1 BMW E39 models have 4 always rubber jacking pads, slightly behind front wheels and certainly in front of rear wheels. This is where you will work a jack stand to support vehicle when working with spare raised. This photo shows jack pad area with missing jack pad. Jack pad sensors into hole in body. There is a fair amount of environment rust around the jack pad area.
I neglected to separate one of these cables from the heater unit before trying to remove the dash and pulled off the pressed-on loop that held it in place. All in all though, it's a very straightforward process. Just pay attention to what you remove and how you reinstall it, that's the best advice I can offer.
I went into this with very little mechanical experience - I had changed my soft top, replaced my brake rotors and pads, and changed my oil - that was about all I'd ever done with a car to this point. I now have two Miatas, one starting as a manual, the other as an automatic, now fully swapped and functional.
If I can do it, anyone can. If you're considering a similar project or are in the middle of one and have questions, feel free to drop me a line!
One other big tip convert the manual to automatic FIRST. Otherwise, you'll be driving your newly-converted manual Miata all the time and will. I'm in the market, but I'm finding a surprising amount of automatics, which is lame. Does anyone have any experience with an auto to manual conversion? Hi folks, I've pretty much completed this conversion on my Mk1 Eunos. I used a Mk1 donor manual Eunos that was rotting away to swap.